Central Coast Chronicles

Aladdin surf mag Profile

2011-11-22T15:41:00.000-08:00

I have a Profile in Joe Foster's new Mag Aladdin. Check it OUT.
http://aladdinsurfmag.com/

A Cold Water Classic

2011-11-16T09:04:00.000-08:00

Some places in this world just have a magical feeling. Santa Cruz is one of them. Every year I make the trek up there for the Cold Water Classic because I get to hang out with friends and enjoy watching an influx of talent rip the waves on offer. This year suffered from a lack of swell but that doesn't mean much considering what kids can do on 1 foot waves now. Next year the CWC is going to be a CT which will be fun to watch. Cheers to all those who let me crash on their couches and toured me around.

Richard Christie

Homer

Dusty Payne

Barney

Kyle Theirmann

Taylor Knox

Brett Simpson

Miguel Pupo

Kyle Buthman

Kyle Theirmann

Angles

2011-11-08T20:15:00.000-08:00

I love when a shoot uses a lot of different angles. Sean Tully and I played around the other morning and kept switching it up. Considering I was shooting from land it was about as enjoyable as it gets.

Clean Lines of Winter

2011-10-18T11:21:00.000-07:00

As the North Pacific begins to wake from its summer slumber I find myself feeling a little excited for the first time in months. The points are filled in with sand waiting for their moment to shape the oceans energy into flawless walls for both my viewing and riding pleasure. There is something about winter swells that gets the blood flowing and the mind racing. Where should I go? What boards do I need? What are the winds? are all questions that every surfer considers when they see the buoys at 20 feet off the coast. October usually gives a good taste of whats to come and this year was no exception. Let the games begin.

face shot

Nick Hdez

Austin Smith-Ford

Aaron Ernst

Darshan Gooch

Kilian Garland

Pete Mussio

Bud Freitas

Sunrise Empty

Austin Smith-Ford

Nick Hdez

Darshan Gooch

Nick Hdez

Kyle Buthman

Steves new Flick

2011-10-05T17:25:00.000-07:00

Fellow logging connoisseur Steve Cleveland is putting out a new flick. Here is the trailer is looking SiCk!
Here is the link CHECK IT OUT
http://vimeo.com/30063918

Enjoying the view

2011-10-04T23:17:00.000-07:00

Empty Barrel shots are a dime a dozen these days. Here are 6 dimes from the dozen.

From all over

2011-10-02T21:58:00.000-07:00

One of the best things about Fall is that we get swells from all over. With a few early season Nw swells under the belt and a small hurricane swell joining in last week there has been waves to ride every day for the last 2 weeks. My odometer has been clicking away with all the driving but in my eyes thats a good thing. One of things I enjoy most about shooting is all the different approaches I watch people take to the canvas of a wave. Here is a post dedicated to diversity.

Mike Walters

Sean Hayes

Kyle Buthman

Kilian Garland

Bryan Schmidt

Andrew Bennett

Sean Tully

Jp Garcia

Oliver Parker

Danny Bralver

Andrew Buck

Miles Wallace

Welcome Home

2011-10-01T18:41:00.001-07:00

Sorry it's been a while since I posted and thats because I have been traveling around Africa. I must say its nice to be home but I have just returned from the best trip of my life. Most of the trip was spent photographing the amazing wilderness that Africa has to offer but I managed to spend the last week at the best wave in the world. After thinking the trip could not get any better we scored a perfect 8-10 foot swell with perfect conditions. I miss Africa already. The people could not have been any friendlier and their hospitality was some of the best I have encountered anywhere in the world.

Ouch

2011-08-03T19:54:00.000-07:00

Jesse Colombo gets a reminder of why old men on pop out longboards SuCk!!!

GeT RaD CreW

2011-07-26T14:06:00.000-07:00

Santa Cruz is my second home. Over the last few years I have gotten to know Kyle, Kyle, Austin and Matt pretty well and I always enjoy hanging and shooting with them. All Four get Rad in their own ways and thats what makes them such a good crew. The Get Rad Crew is now an online contest with 40g's on the line. So click your mouses over to http://apps.facebook.com/nike-chosen/crews/get-rad/4476 and the exercise your index finger one more time and click the like button. NO SIGN UP NECESSARY!!!! so.....

JUST DO IT....

Three Decades of Knowledge

2011-07-26T00:26:00.000-07:00

Three Decades gives a logger the time to perfect their craft. They have enough style to last a lifetime and it never gets old to watch them glide along the face of a wave. As we age we slow down and take in the finer points of of oceanic gliding. Style becomes more important and maneuvers less. The joy of glide.

Dusty

Jimmy

Jason

Dane

Josh

Andrew

J.P.

Daniel

Rasta

J.P.

Bringing Life

2011-07-13T11:46:00.000-07:00

In a pervious post I brought attention to the Guru, a true Central Coast Character and good friend to all. Yesterday the Guru and his partner in crime, Lady Grace, brought life into the world at a whopping 8 lbs.

Judging from the genes he just inherited I think I know who is going to be ripping the central coast 15 years from now. CHEERS TO DARSH AND GRACE

J7 Heyyoooo

2011-06-21T16:58:00.000-07:00

The new J7 Shop was the first shop to sell out of their first order of the CCC and stock a reorder. Stoked on the support and the spreading of the word of the CCC.

Andy

Keoni

Gabe

Nate

Adam

Tarik

Pete

Miles

Dennis

Colin

Aaron

Nole Cossart

2011-06-21T15:39:00.000-07:00

Today is the summer solstice and it just so happens our good friend Nole Cossart is also getting married. Congratulations to Nole and Jaclyn!!

Carp

2011-06-20T13:26:00.000-07:00

The boys from Carp all rip and non of them are sponsored. Thats the way they like it and thats how it will stay.

Rick

Spencer D

Tim

Spencer D

Bummy

Bryan

Spencer J

Sean

Turning and Burning

2011-06-13T21:27:00.000-07:00

I have been stuck behind the desk way to often over the last two months. My lungs missed that clean pure air that makes the soul lighter. A little road trip sounded like the perfect fix to my problems. I threw the dogs and a board in the car and headed north to see what I might come across. I found good surfing and good friends. Road trips are the best.

Brandon

Chris

Kyle B

Bud

Noi

Kyle T

Austin

Kyle B

Kyle T

Austin

Darshan

2011-05-29T12:32:00.000-07:00

Should have been here yesterday.

Truck Show

2011-05-28T18:22:00.000-07:00

After paying Ventura's awesome parking fee my friends Seth and Sean did an art and music show in the back of an old pickup truck. A cool concept pulled off to perfection.

Trunks Central

2011-05-25T11:27:00.000-07:00

Although it doesn't happen often The Central Cali coast does go through shitty periods. That can only mean one thing. Its spring and time to go on a trip to the other Central coast. Central Mex is big barrel central. Kyle Adam and I had good waves for a week straight. Here is post 1/2.

About time

2011-05-24T22:54:00.000-07:00

Due to the lack of Swell and the release of CCC VOLUME 1 (which I hope you went out and bought a copy of) blogging has not been high on the list. But I am back with the Santa Cruz boys on a little South Swell mission.

bud

Ricky

Sean

Homer

Ryan

Kyle

Ashton

Darshan

Noi

Austin

Jesse

Darshan

Matt

Kyle

Matt

Omar

Drake

People with T Names

2011-04-08T17:47:00.000-07:00

People With T names Ripping the 805

Tom

Tyler

Tim

Teddy

Taylor

Tarik

Trevor

Travers

Beach Break Fun

2011-04-05T19:14:00.000-07:00

In the middle of winter after a string of good waves it's pretty easy to find yourself with just a few friends sharing a sandbar. It may not be all time but it sure if fun. No hassle and lot of laughs.

Jeremy

Matt

Ghost Rider

Rob

Sean

Myers Wins

2011-04-04T16:07:00.000-07:00

"Hey Bro this is my spot and don't you forget it."

"Beat it Kook"

"Fuck you kid i've been surfing here for 20 Years"

"Thats funny you still suck after 20 years."

Oceanic Art

2011-04-04T08:34:00.000-07:00

Surfing is an art. Photography is an art. Together they are artistic. Enjoy

Adam

Bummy

Brad

Bobby

Austin

Alex

Arson

Aaron

Andrew

2 weeks

2011-03-23T22:30:00.000-07:00

It's been a little while since I made a post but I have been on the road in search of the ocean's treasures. I did a lot of hunting and not much Killing. A few gems were located but mostly in the rain. Here are the empties with surfers to follow next.

Wayne-O

2011-03-09T15:06:00.000-08:00

A true character and staple among the 805 surf scene, Wayne Rich is one of my favorite people to run into. I had met Wayne once in the parking lot of Queen and right away knew I would like the guy. A few weeks later a paddled out on my 5'8" on a fun chest high longboard day and sure enough the deepest person in the line up was Wayne. I sat there waiting for a wave for quite a while when out of nowhere an overhead wave, clearly the wave of the day, popped up and came right to where Wayne and I were sitting. It was clearly Wayne's wave but for some strange reason he gave me the nod and the wave. Two perfect tubes through the cove put a huge smile on my face and Wayne and I have been good friends ever since. He is a master craftsman of the shaping bay and although his talent may not have brought him financial riches it has cemented Wayne in the lives of many surfers, which if you asked Wayne is worth its weight in gold.

Wanye-O

Motor Driven

2011-03-07T10:44:00.000-08:00

Using a motor is without a doubt cheating. But after days of flatness the smallest little wedge starts to look inviting. With a little assistance a one foot wave becomes a mega ramp and the fun begins. I would much rather see people paddle and fly the tow and fly but I don't alway get it the way I want it. So here is some assisted flying.

Matt

Bummy

Kilian

Adam

Virs

Andrew

Mike

Santa Cruz Guru

2011-03-04T09:07:00.000-08:00

If you don't know the GURU then that sucks for you. He has a great approach to life and surfing as long as he is not hungry. So keep him well fed and you will be enlightened by the Santa Cruz GuRu.

Darshan Gooch

Mind Surf when it's Flat

2011-02-27T09:09:00.000-08:00

The last week has been FLAT, WET, COLD and Shitty. So mind surfing these few empties might help.

The BUCK STOPS HERE

2011-02-24T17:59:00.000-08:00

Thats right Ladies and Gentleman it's the BUCK STOPS HERE's birthday. He is in London but I figured lets birthday post him out anyway. So wish the BUCK a happy birthday.

A shaper and Surfer

2011-02-24T16:11:00.000-08:00

Mike Walters rips. He also rips foam off of blanks. Ask him to make you a board it will definitely float.

Get Up There BrO

2011-02-23T10:17:00.000-08:00

"Hey kid if I see you shuffle your feet one more time up to the nose I'm going to personally make sure you never surf here again." says the crusty old man to a prepubescent kid "and take the learners rope off before I cut it off."

Walking back to his car with his tail between his legs little Johnny cursed the old crusty under his breath.

But it was too late the damage was done. Johnny realized he was a kook and that his approach needed to change.

Upon waking up the next day Johnny had an epiphany. The Old Crusty was not the rat bastard mother fucker he had thought but instead a great Teacher. It only took 5 seconds for the Crusty to forever imprint the most important part of surfing....STYLE MATTERS.

Little Johnny never shuffled again.

Tyler

Gabe

Waylon

Josh

Andrew

Cody

Sean

Oliver

Larry

Daniel

4 Second time warp

2011-02-22T14:23:00.000-08:00

I've been sitting in this spot for too long. I am waiting for a time tunnel. As I sit I begin to think back to previous time tunnels that I have travelled. It's funny the harder I think the more I realize I don't remember very many details of the journey. As if was yesterday I can remember the feelings they have given me down to every little shiver but I still I don't remember the journey. As my thoughts lead towards their conclusion my eyes shift and notice that my time tunnel has arrived and it is time to depart. Upon departure I feel my body go weightless. It's like a rug has just been swept from under my feet and there is no earth below. Gravity runs its course and downward I fall 3, 4 ,5 feet until my feet find solid ground again. As I let instinct take over from there I find myself focused solely on the moment and the exit strategy. There is no time to look around and smell the roses. One wrong move and i'm finished. Getting closer to my goal of relocation I get an unexpected push. Tiny drops of water hitting the back of my head and the rest of my body so hard it stings and distracts me. With my attention diverted I barely realized I had been relocated to the other side.

Jesse

Parker

Andrew

Mike

Conner

Kilian

Logan

Mike

Matt

Dennis

Darshan

Bummy

A good Day

2011-02-16T10:30:00.000-08:00

As I sit here listening the the rain clink and clank against my window I am instantly transported back to yesterday. A good day. My feet found their home in the sand while I shot my friends trading tunnels in overcast glass. This lasted until Poseidon gave us wind from the south bringing the session to an end.

Burning the diesel Chevron deposited in my tank for a small fee I managed to find a fisherman dwelling on his lack of a days catch. In a way I joined him on his journey as I fished for images. Having caught my days limit I knew it was time to fire back up the diesel and continue on the days journey.

As darkness approached I knew there was time for one more adventure so I joined another friend and went off the grid to find the gold at the end of the rainbow. Gold we found and the two of us traded oceanic peelers until the sun breathed its final breath and we laughed our way home.

Conner

Jesse

J.P.

A day for the Ladies

2011-02-14T18:15:00.000-08:00

Women are amazing. They are also amazingly complicated but I think thats why we LOVE them. Happy Valentines Day.

Alex

Annie

Char

Janna

Kassia

Debbi

Demi

Lakey

Heather

Paying Attention

2011-02-13T13:21:00.000-08:00

If you pay attention while on the beach there is always so much around to be photographed. It may have nothing to do with surfing or your buddy doing a huge air. Either way if your not paying attention then your going to miss the peak moment. Here is a collection of the non surfing moments.

Most Groms are Little Shits

2011-02-12T18:52:00.000-08:00

But Nic is not. The kid had a great sense of humor and is as Surf stoked as anyone I have ever met. I barely know the kid but he reminds me of my little brother. If he stays grounded, humble, and works hard the sky is the limit.

getting Fishy

2011-02-12T12:03:00.000-08:00

There is nothing like the open ended speed of a thinned out fish. Sections that your thruster gave up on years ago are back in play and your excitement is through the roof. Yeah the lip misses you a little bit but it is definitely not forgotten. The foam ball is harder to find but the water droplets that you discharged from the surface thank you for the wild flight and relocation. All in all a thin fish is as important to a surfer's quiver as a putter is to a golfer's golf bag.

Darshan

Conner

Bummy's slipper

Clint

Joe

Lauran

Trevor

Dennis

Randoms

2011-02-10T22:00:00.000-08:00

Dennis

Darshan

Clint

Flipper

Andrew

Cody

should be you

Mike

But like always good surfing is good surfing

Cashing in on 14 days

2011-02-07T22:52:00.000-08:00

A 14 day surf trip with the smallest day being shoulder high is a damn fine thing. Here are 7 different waves of the 14 days.

KGaR BiRtHdAY PhotoS

2011-01-22T19:18:00.000-08:00

It's KgArs Birthday So Wish Him a HapPy BirTHdAy

Something Different

2011-01-17T07:10:00.000-08:00

Looking at the ocean with an open mind will only benefit you in the long run.

Mas Olas

2011-01-16T22:37:00.000-08:00

Muy Bueno

adam

arson

andrew

bummy

demi

kilian

kyle

logan

matt

max

miles

mike "bushy"

sean

travers

trevor

adam

mike walters

Surf City

2011-01-13T15:00:00.000-08:00

the OG Surf City is my second home.

bud

noi

evan

bryce

kyle

kelsy

darsh

austin

nick lamb

matt

Feelings

2011-01-12T10:12:00.000-08:00

Without a doubt the best feeling in surfing is getting tubed. The second best feeling is hanging ten. It's like you're Jesus walking on water.

gabe

zander

mary

Daniel

Oliver

Kassia

Kevin

Jason

Brett

Jean Paul XVII

Andrew

Sean

Cole

Cody

don't wink or you miss the winkle

2011-01-09T17:06:00.000-08:00

Enjoying North of Point Conception with Nate Winkles

Mind Surf

2011-01-07T22:40:00.000-08:00

Does mind surfing still count as a session? Mind surf these and then ask yourself again.

Arson's Art of Surfing

2011-01-06T09:00:00.000-08:00

Arson has been on a mission recently. Here is photographic evidence.

Good waves = Ripping

2011-01-06T00:01:00.000-08:00

Winter swells bring Winter waves.
Winter waves lead to ripping.
Thank god its not summer

A Different Kind of Tube Shot

2011-01-02T23:27:00.000-08:00

I like when tube shots come out strange and different. It changes the shot from being about style and form, to art and emotion.

robert curtis

dennis rizzo

Darshan Gooch

Adam Lambert

Spreading Their Wings

2011-01-01T22:40:00.000-08:00

Pelicans are awesome

A.I. a Chance Meeting and session

2010-12-30T09:50:00.000-08:00

Mainland Mexico is special. Period the end. On the second day of a quick 5 day strike, fellow 805 resident, Dane Renyolds, appeared out of thin air and with him none other then the champ himself Andy Irons. We watched them surf perfect 6 foot peaks for 3 days and it was clear that Andy was the champ. Like all great music acts he was 10x better live. I'm glad to say I saw Andy Irons live.

BeAting the CUrse

2010-12-29T17:43:00.000-08:00

Being a goofy foot on the Central Coast is a curse. With more right hand point breaks then any calculator can count, a surfer would go crazy if he was goofy....unless you rise above the problem. Two goofy people I know have instead used this curse and reversed it. Talking the time on endless point walls to learn both stances and be able to switch at a moments notice. Now it's a blessing and not a curse.

Sean Tully

Oliver Parker

Scoring With Groms

2010-12-29T11:26:00.000-08:00

If there is one thing you can always count on it's frothing groms at 3pm when school lets out. Most of the time I think of them as a plague. They always seem to be in the way and they paddle around you like you are only there to watch them. This day was different though. Matt had been surfing for four hours alone and his legs were done. There was no one else on the beach until four groms came running up the sand, eyes glued to the perfect a frames that were everywhere you looked. They ran 50 yards past Matt and paddle out into a perfect session, alone, and laughing.

12 days of Christmas

2010-12-27T22:21:00.000-08:00

One the first day of Christmas the ocean gave to me.......

Andrew Doheny bottom turning

2nd Day.. Matt McCabe playing in the coco

3rd Day Matt McCabe threading the tube

4th day Matt McCabe mountain punt

5th day Adam Lambert goes to India

6th day Kilian Garland lofting high

7th day Empty coco linup

8th day black holes of glory

9th day speedy waves are running

10th day Perfect Peaks keep coming

11th day Sean Tully cranks a turn

12th day Kilian Garland finds the magic

rain

2010-12-21T23:10:00.000-08:00

Rain RAin go AwAy

ComE BaCk AnoThER DaY

If You DONT i DONT care

yOuR Making A SIck SANdbar SomEWHERe

Bobby Martinez

B.A.

Mike McCabe

Kilian Garland

Kilian

Bummy

Andrew Bennett

bummy

Tim Davis

Getting HIGH

2010-12-19T17:38:00.000-08:00

When the waves get small its time to fly with Kilian, Adam, Andrew,Bummy, and Mike.

Adam Lambert

Adam

Sea Bitch

Andrew Bennett

Kilian Garland

Mike Walters

Bummy Koepenick

Last Man Standing

2010-12-17T11:30:00.000-08:00

It's really cold out. So cold that your legs are shaking, your teeth are grinding and you have lost the ability to move your fingers. The water temp has dropped and the offshore winds are reminding you that winter has come and the days of the warm Santa Anna evening are nothing but a distant memory. Your wetsuit has holes like a L.A. S.W.A.T. vest and the rubber is cracked like a riot shield. Sitting there you wonder why you didn't take that last wave in to the warmth of the crackling fire where beers have been cracked and stories are already underway. Just as your brain begins it final stage of thermal shutdown a set begins to show itself and its as if you were stuck in the microwave and put on instant thaw. Your arms start moving at a pace that means nothing but business. Your first instinct is to look around too see who you need to be wary of ruining your ticket to glory. After a quick glance you remember that you're the last man standing and you can have any wave you want. With that thought the pressure to preform is lifted and it's just you and the ocean. Wave number 2 is the obvious choice, and although its practically dark out there is no need for sight. You have graced this endless wall of water with your presence on more then one occasion and it's like reading braille, all done by feel, all the way to the warmth of the fire.

Evan Geiselman

andrew bennett adam lambert

adam lambert

darshan gooch

rat

dooma

Show me your BAckside

2010-12-15T20:33:00.001-08:00

Ripping a good backside turn is not easy. Looking like a kook trying to do a backside turn is really easy. I think it's fair to say Bobby has the best backside in the game. I am always astonished by how many turns he can fit into one wave. One after the next after the next, and the best part is every turn is different. Fluid motions the whole way. Cheers to Bobby and friends looking over their shoulders.

Putting it on Rail with Conner Coffin

2010-12-14T11:50:00.000-08:00

No words needed for this one.

Frames of A

2010-12-13T22:31:00.000-08:00

Nothing is better then having the choice to go right or left on the same wave. Maybe you went left the last time and this time the right looks better. Or last time you figured out a new way to pump through the tube and you want to try again. Either way it's nice to pick your poison.

Boat Kooks

2010-12-13T17:50:00.000-08:00

Someone needs to teach these kooks how to secure their boats. Get a mooring or better yet a spot in the harbor. Well it’s too late now your boat has been on the beach for 2 weeks and it has made a sick little sandbar. Thanks for the sandbar. Sorry about the boat.

jp garcia

robert curtis

Side Wedge vs Relationship

2010-12-12T23:05:00.000-08:00

Side wedges are like relationships. Often times this courtship results in a ride down the tunnel of love ending in a shower of bliss. Other times the relationship soars high and lands softly leaving both parties smiling. On some occasions the relationship starts in the love tunnel only to back off and then finish with a bang. The best ones though start off slowly and tease you as they grow in front of your eyes giving way to a backdoor path down the tunnel of love propelling you out into the light where you soar to new highs only to come down into a white pillow of bliss. Then you're on your way in search of the next wedge in your life.

Kilian Garland

Adam Lambert and Josh Pomer

Matt Myers

Darshan Gooch

Dennis Rizzo

Lines

2010-12-11T23:11:00.000-08:00

Surfers are like children. We draw all the time. We draw imaginary waves to make up for the lack of waves that day. We imagine exploring new places on the wave. Drawing lines with rails instead of crayons. Drawing out longer bottoms turns to get that little extra speed to make a section or catch up to a kook. Drawing a line through the air to find a totally new feeling. Surfing is all about lines. There is no right or wrong line. Just different lines for different people. next time the surf is up find your line and enjoy the simplest, most complex, part of surfing.

Trevor Gordon, Tom Curren, Travers Adler, Oliver Parker,

Mike Walters, Chad and Noll Cosart, Sean Tully

Ride a skateboard

2010-12-11T11:47:00.000-08:00

The foundation for all good board riding is skateboarding. It teaches you balance, style, air awareness and how to take some pain. Surfing has adapted to its new foundation and kids are now born to fly. Flying isn’t easy though. Most fail on their leap from the nest of water. But those who manage to keep trying sooner or later perfect the art of flight.

Surfers- Conner Coffin, Yadin Nichols, Bummy Koepenick, Kilian Garland

All Smiles

2010-12-08T21:13:00.000-08:00

I love it when I see random people smiling. In coastal towns across California you can judge how the swell has been by how many random people smile at you in a single day. I got a lot of smiles today.

Aaron Ernst

Blowing Out The Candles

2010-12-07T19:05:00.000-08:00

After a deep breath you exhale with all your force, extinguishing the flames that had been devouring the string protruding from a twisting piece of wax. You fall into a deep trance and the only thought to cross your mind is “I wish for good waves.” When you open your eyes you are baffled at the fact that the flames have returned and once again that sting is disappearing before your eyes. So you blow even harder the second time and again into the trance you go “I wish for good waves.” This time when you open your eyes relief takes over and you find peace in the fact that the flames have accepted your wish and vanished. It’s your birthday and everyone should score on their birthday.

Sean Tully birthday session 3x

All Time Small Time

2010-12-05T19:44:00.000-08:00

The waves are going off!! Backless tunnels of water exploding on the sandbar, perfectly catching the last few rays the sun has to offer before retiring into the nights slumber. It's as if these waves have been planning this moment for a week. Not a drop of water is out of place. In one final hoorah the wave releases its last burst of energy in a blinding spit. If I was 1 foot tall I could have made this a reality.

In Trim

2010-12-04T23:06:00.000-08:00

When the waves are small it's time to find your trim. Glide changes the way the mind thinks. It slows down life to the perfect pace. Moving but cruising. No wasted motions. Fluidity and simplicity are everything.

Top: J.P. Garcia Bottom: Kyle Albers

Cold Water Coffee

2010-12-04T22:51:00.000-08:00

I don’t drink coffee. I enjoy the last hour of darkness and the first hour of my day in total grogginess. Checking waves, meeting up with people, figuring out the plan of attack without a care in the world because I’m practically still asleep. I get my shot of espresso when the frigid water diverts its intended course to make room for my crusty foot. Those first few drops are all it takes to electrify my senses and wake me up 10x better then caffeine ever could. My eyes open a little wider, my thoughts are sharp and quick, my legs are ready to do work. My day has now started.

A cold Morning With Matt McCabe

200 Mile Rally

2010-12-04T08:53:00.000-08:00

There is nothing like a surf mission that works out. Up at 4:30, drive 80 miles, hike 30 minutes, score perfect 8 foot left pits till the wind switches, start driving home and hear that one of your favorites spots is still going off at 6 foot plus, rally 90 miles to spot X, swim a water session, score waves with 10 strangers until sundown. 15 more miles in the car and its been a day to remember. God I love winter.

Surfer-Kilian Garland

So it begins

2010-11-24T10:51:00.000-08:00

Welcome to the start of the Central Coast Chronicles